Monday 1 August 2011

Thoughts on a Ugandan Bus

Hi all,

Although this blog post won't be up until I've arrived back from Uganda, I feel that my lack of blogging should be addressed, so I'm writing one now, while on board a public bus from Queen Elizabeth National Park to Kampala (the capital of Uganda).

I'm already nearly finished the expedition, so apologies if my memory fails to provide a decent insight into how I have experienced life in Uganda thus far.

First off, this is Africa; a continent known for its masculinity in the face of all things even in everyday life. As such, there is a proliferation of misogyny. Men seem to be of a higher class than women, espeically so in the more rural areas, and in at least some parts of the country, a dowry system is still the norm for marriage. Payment could be in currency (Ugandan Shillings) or other items such as cattle or goats, which is to be paid by the groom to his partner's parents. Oh, and extra payment if a son is produces. As you may know, homosexuality is illegal in Uganda, and I have not had the opportunity to discuss the issue with any locals.

- sorry to break the flow, the bus just stopped for a break and a line of men just started pissing in clear view of everyone on the bus. Anyways... -

Those of you who read my blog will know my standing on religion, however, I have held back my true thoughts on the most part, purely on grounds of respect for the local people. I did however mention my standing to a few boys in the school I had been helping out for nine days, none of whom had heard of the word 'Atheist' before. Again, this is Africa, and it is a very religious continent. References to faith can be seen pretty much everywhere in this country. Even the slogan for the bus I'm currently on is "In God we trust". Uganda's two main religions are Islam and (of course) Christianity, with what I can see as a fairly even balance between them, with both Churches and Mosques coming into view pretty regularly.

In terms of local opinion on their own country, I haven't had too many conversations, but the main topics that seem to come up include the need for more electricity, especially in rural areas, with the demand for solar panels, also the high level of corruption that seems to sweep local and national businesses alike, and also the strikes and protests by teachers over a lack in their payrise. So all in all, very similar to the problems we face in the UK.

If you imagined food shortages were a problem in Uganda, you'd be completely wrong. There is quite literally an abundance of food here. Practically everywhere that has been populated with humans has acres upon acres of banana plantations. The bananas mostly get used for making a local food called matoke, which tastes like a sweeter version of mashed potato (soft plantain, for those familiar with plantain). Oh, and over here, they don't call potatoes simply 'potatoes', they insist on calling them 'Irish potatoes', even though they are mostly grown in Uganda anyway. For most of the project/expedition I've been living off rice, pasta, bread and beanfeast that's cooked over either a methylated spirits canister or a good old wood fire. I love making fires (without sounding too psychopathic). Other times, when food is actually cooked for me and the other members of the team, I've tasted a few of the local foods like cassava, matoke and a bean stew-like soup concoction (tastes good). A few times I've had a whole fish (Tilapia), which is interesting because I have to decide which parts are edible. All in all, the local food is awesome.

Food is one of the two main subjects of importance throughout my time in-country. The other subject is transport, which is easier said than done when it comes to arranging. I have come to realise that sometimes arranging things last-minute in Uganda is actually the best way to go. Pre-booking transport causes a manner of problems, especially if the person has to drive halfway across the country to first meet up with the group or if the driver's English skills are lacking. On more than one occasion the person we booked for transport has tried to wager more money for no other legitimate reason than their own personal gain. They must think that because we are Westerners it means that we are willing to pay more money just because we seem to have more of it than they do. Nevertheless, our problems were always solved by someone close by who offered to do the same job for less than the original. More often than not, they were very nice people too! Aside from the few people who simply want to get money for nothing, Ugandans are an extremely friendly bunch, and most are willing to devote a lot of their time to help out us Westerners, or Muzungus, as they like to call us.

Looking forward to reaching Entebbe from Kampala and actually sleeping in a bed tonight.

Until next time. Question everything. Accept nothing without evidence.